Villandry was the first chateau on our itinerary and we headed straight there after renting our car in Tour. Of course we immediately made the usual mistakes, and were over half-way to Poitier before we realized that we were way past our chateau. After a surprisingly easy turnaround, we headed back on the auto route to Villandry without any more problems---that I can remember. Fortunately the chateaus are marked by signs well in advance, since they are the main tourist attractions.
The gardens were sporting their bright fall colors, and the plantings consisted mainly of red begonias intermixed with purple cabbages.
In the vivid afternoon sunshine, the cabbages were luminescent. And then there was the chard.
We spent a splendid Saturday night in Saumur, sleeping beneath the illuminated chateau and dining at the bustling Le Pot de Lapin. Sunday morning, after a typical French breakfast, we set out for Chateau D'Azay-Le-Rideau.
We parked on Rue Rabelais next to the church and as we entered the tiny village Dean marked the spot with a photo by the spouting gargoyle fountain.
Before entering the grounds, we spotted a potager, or kitchen vegetable plot, belonging to the Chateuau. It contained a wild array of colorful flowers and herbs and even a working compost heap. The potting shed also served as a mini garden-themed gift shop.
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| The trip wouldn't be complete without a compost heap- this one at Azay- le-Rideau |
We continued through the gates to the the exquisite chateau, which turned out to be my favorite of the trip. The fairytale aspect of the castle with its perfect proportions, and the glorious late summer day all contributed to the magical experience.
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| The moat surrounding Azay-le-Rideau |
After visiting the chateau and extensive grounds, we tried to order a bite at the outdoor café, but we were too famished to wait for the over-worked staff to wait on us...
So we left the enchanted castle and found a typically french bistro nearby that would serve us lunch after the witching hour. (The French stop serving lunch at about 2:30 and close their restaurants until dinnertime.) The patrons also were kind enough to locate the area where we had parked our car. After so much oohing and ahhing, we had forgotten how to find our parking spot on Rue Rabelais .
Next on our itinerary was Chateau D'Ussé. More fairytale towers and medieval spires
From the upper level, we looked down at the the sprawling gardens and after a thorough study of the interior, including the attic, we descended onto the grounds.
I loved the colors and unsymmetrical arrangement of the plants
Some areas were remiscent of wild gardens I saw growing up in Wisconsin. They were a bright contrast to the stony formality of the chateau itself.
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| Dean writing a postcard across the road from Chateau D'Ussé |
We found a lovely spot for lunch immediately across from the Chateau entrance and we wrote postcards and watched the bicyclists file in while we waited for our typically French salads.
For the next few days we drove around the countryside, visiting troglodyte caves, tasting Anjou wines and enjoying the small towns and villages with their lesser known chateaus or abbeys.
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| Ancient church in the tiny wine village of Savennieres, |
Finally we found one more garden at the Chateau in Angers. This was our last stop in the Loire Valley and after we returned our car at the train station, we spent the afternoon touring the formidable castle with it's famous tapestries of the Apocalypse.
This chateau garden was of the formal French variety and it was laid down in the dry moat surrounding the castle. Dean took a video which captured the whole scene.
Then it was farewell to Angers and hello Paris
Not only does Paris boast grand parks and green spaces, if you walk around you'll be surprised by small squares with enchanting little garden spaces like Square Marius Constant, which we discovered by chance.
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| More chard amongst the flowers |
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| Another photo-op for both of us |
