Sunday, May 17, 2020

Citrus Peel Syrup and Candied Orange Sugar

"Some may toss citrus peels into the compost pile after juicing them, but the peel itself has its own flavor and aroma. You’re getting all that fresh, eye-opening citrus that wakes you up,” said Claire Sprouse (owner of Brooklyn cafe Hunky Dory) “like walking into a juice shop and smelling all the zest in the air." 



And to think that I'm one of those that has tossed  tangerine peels into my green bin since the season started in December. My favorite Murcotts and Page manderins are still available and I still brave the Monterey Market with a mask to buy them, so I still have plenty of time to concoct Ms Sprouse's specialty:

"To capture the citrusy goodness, place your collected peels in a bowl, dust them with sugar and let them sit on the countertop, covered, for a day or so. The sugar will extract citrus oil from the peels, resulting in a bracingly bright syrup ideal for a Collins or gimlet. Fold a bit of citrus juice (if you have it; water, if you don’t) into the mixture to incorporate the sugar, then cut it with vodka to give it a longer shelf life in the fridge." (from an article in the New York Times on May 7th)

Next: Homage to Ici--their ice cream and candied orange peel


Ici appeared on College Ave some time in '06  and the lines formed immediately. Not far from UC Berkeley in Elmwood, a classic, colorful Berkeley neighborhood, the tiny shop attracted students, locals and tourists alike. Original flavors and giant cookie cones lined with chocolate welcomed the faithful. Owner Mary Canales, a Chez Panisse alum created beautiful ice creams with exotic flavors in startling combinations which changed daily.

Changing flavors of the day displayed behind glass 
Not shown are favorites like cardamom rose, saffron, chamomile, candied orange, ginger, chicory, Earl Gray and many more creative offerings-- lusciously exotic, yet subtle and fresh.

More genius flavors like peach-muscat, honey juniper and basil
For a few years Ici brought a fancy cart to two Berkeley farmer's markets. The lines were shorter than the shop's so I would often indulge in a cup with two flavors. Those were the days!

Goodies at the counter of the College Ave, shop

There was always a tempting display of house made goodies like ginger cookies, gift wrapped bon bons and candied citrus peel near the register. Who could resist? And then suddenly right before Christmas the store  closed. Ici had opened a second location on a nondescript stretch of University Ave, and that store never caught on. Perhaps the failure of the second location brought down the whole enterprise.  In any case, both stores closed suddenly in late November 2018 without an explanation. 

My wrinkled bag of candied blood orange peel bought at Ici a few years ago

Taking a cue from Claire Sprouse, I dug up some of Ici's candied blood orange peel that I stashed away years ago, shook off the sugar clinging to the peel and strained it into a small bowl. Now I have some some precious, zingy orange sugar to put in my hot cross buns, if I ever get around to making them. And luckily, I still have the remaining peel to use in the future. 



Wednesday, May 6, 2020

The Food of France Deconstructed

My blogger buddy Jeanette, who taught me everything I know about blogging, has been entertaining us daily with comforting memories of past travels from the armchair of her computer on Jeanette Baird's Studio. Inspired by her daily posts, I retrieved some old food and restaurant photos of my 2018 trip to Paris and the Loire Valley, which I intended to publish in a blog called The Food of France. Now it will be much more fun to offer them in installments a la Jeanette.


This painterly dish featuring pintade and petites légumes di printemps  (spring veggies) was created by the talented female chef at L' Épigramme in Paris. Even though this was our first meal in Paris and we had just arrived exhausted from our flight, I consider this to be the most delicious and  beautiful entrée of the whole trip. And, by the way, Jeanette recommended this bistro before we left.